The positive vibe around 2018 got me to thinking about the
word vintage. Its literal meaning is the wine of a single year as
opposed to a blend of various harvests. This is how we use it in the trade but,
it also has a positive connotation as being applied to something of exceptional
quality. Largely this comes from wines like Champagne and Port where the
regular products are blends and traditionally they only made wine from a single
vintage in the really good years. One thing that you do see is that when
you get a really great vintage in one place, news spreads and people assume
that it applies to all regions.
When I first started in the business we
were selling the truly wonderful 1982 Bordeaux and on the back of it, demand
for 1982 Burgundy increased despite them making pretty thin and dilute wines.
In hot countries there is less variation in climate and so less variation
between vintages and there’s a case for saying that due to global warming, the
same is starting to happen in Europe. To take Bordeaux again, the really
great years came around about once or possibly twice a decade if you were
lucky. Since the great 2000 they have had 05, 09,10,15,16 all being
declared “Vintage of the Century” with some of the ones in-between also being
pretty tasty (01,03,06, 14, 17).
A Vintage Year.
Our small world of English Wine Making is all a in bit of a
quiver. Potentially we’re facing the best harvest for a long time, certainly
since 2009 and perhaps one of the best ever in our short history. That being
said, the last month is the most important and so there’s still a way to go
until we get those precious grapes into the winery. At a recent growers
meeting we were all a bit flummoxed as to what to say to each other. Like all
farmers, we like a good moan but nobody really had much to complain about.
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